Eating U-Smileys (Sheep head) in Fort Jackson - Different Cultures, Different Dishes

Today's article was written by the young volunteer Jonas Krombach and describes his culinary journey through the world of traditional Xhosa food. Here we go!

 

One of my reasons to do a voluntary year in another country was, that I wanted to get in contact with other cultures. Cultures I did not know before, such as the Xhosa-culture.

When I got the confirmation, that I would be going to Mdantsane for a year as a volunteer for a German Development organization to work with an environmental youth club at a local High School, I started to read about the Xhosa People on the Internet.

I learned quickly, that food plays a big role in the Xhosa culture, but also in general in South Africa.

Jonas Favourite Fat Cake With Liver Filling!!!

Well, I tried to find more information about typical Xhosa-dishes, but all I could find out was that the South Africans love to braai( barbecue) that they adore biltong( dried meat) and that there is Indian food as well, such as the Bunny Chow. 

But I found nothing about traditional Xhosa dishes such as Samp and Beans (Umngqusho), African Salad and Umfino - dishes that I know so well by now.

Theresa and Joans eating Umngusho, a traditional Xhosa Dish

Arriving in Mdantsane I settled down in my guest family’s home. 

When Nolubabalo, one of my guest mothers, said that she was going to cook something for dinner, I was excited and curious at the same time. I can still remember our first dinner. The whole family sat down together at the table and we ate pap with cabbage, butternut and everybody got some chicken as well. What a warm welcome!

The Open Air U-Smileys Restaurant in Fort Jackson An Industrial Area Close To Mdantsane

And as time went by I had the chance to taste the full variety of Xhosa dishes. My favourite dish is Umngusho. It reminds me somehow of the German traditional "lentil soup“. For those who do not know lentil soup I have made a photographic comparison between the two.

Lentil Soup versus Samp and Beans

Never Short of a celebration especially when food is involved

There is another dish I really fell in love with. Or I should better say got addicted to it. 

The Fat-Cake!!! ( Jonas, Jonas, Jonas......how come you did not pick up any weight?)

The Mamas at Inkwenkwezi High School (my former workplace) always sold it during the lunch break. There is a special relationship between the Fat Cake and me. I cannot describe it. But I just adore the Fat Cake! 

Especially the Fat Cake filled with liver. Mhhhhh!

Cutting U-Smileys - Sheep Heads are called like this because when cooked in hot water for a long time they shrink and their face or what is left of it takes on a smiling expression! So it is said!

All the African/Xhosa dishes I have mentioned in this article so far are "nice dishes". 

But there are a couple of dishes I did not manage to become accustomed to. I rather prefer to stay away from them.

Well there is The African Salad.  My guest family always screamed with laughter when they saw how I grimaced my face while I ate the dish. The taste was just always to sour for me!

The Last smile, served on a black trash bag..........Sheep head is a popular dish in the Xhosa culture

I want to end the article with the words of my project coordinator, Melikaya. 

On one of our last days in Mdantsane he said: "How can you leave South Africa without having tasted the Smiley!“ 

And he was right! How could we! And that is why we went with all the staff members to one of Mdantsane´s street kitchens and tasted uSmiley!!!

All I can say is that it was a unique experience I will never forget!

U Smiley

It Is Called Imifino (Umfino)

And the day I learned to cook it

It is called Imifino (Imifino or Umfino, other spellings and writings are possible as well) and last year on Mandela Day I had the pleasure to be invited to an Imifino-cooking-session in NU 1. The team from the NDA - the National Development Agency arrived in mighty numbers and in full armour.

Now meet the cook sisters!

Awela, the Head-Chef

was able to give me a full lecture on Imifino cooking right away!

Traditional South African recipes mostly originate from early English, French, German and Malay settlers. However, the indigenous ethnic tribes were here long before the settlers and they have their own traditional culinary African culture.

IMIFINO IS:

a dish made from fresh vegetables

like carrots, spinach, cabbage, mielies  and mieliemeel

cut in pieces and cooked in a very big pot

simmered for 45 minutes at least

you can add onion and beef and oil

the mieliemeel makes it nice and thick

WE LOVE IMIFINO BECAUSE:

it is healthy 

we have eaten it in the rural villages with the old people

it is easy to make and cheap

you can grow the vegetables in your yard 

BUT you must know in the olden days they did not mix the vegetables like we do it today. Back then Imifino was made from traditional indigenous spices and herbs only. Just salt was added.

We are bringing in the Yellow now with the carrots! 

 

Thandi, the Assistant Chef and Advisor had already started with the more practicable stuff while we were still talking recipes.

And I can guarantee you one thing, while cooking Imifino the traditional African way there is no Mr. Cain deep frozen. It is really CHOP, CHOP, CHOP and CHOP!

Therefore let me introduce to you Mbulelo, the Chief Chopper and Development Manager. It was whispered in my ear by the two ladies Awela and Thandi. that Mbulelo could be in serious trouble at home, if his wife ever saw these images. Seeing him cutting carrots with so much talent, I was told, would probably lead to further assignments in the kitchen at the family residence. I think I have to take the risk and publish this image. Sorry Mbulelo!

The taste is worth the effort!

Without Any Doubt!

A SOUP OF BUTTERNUT

Wherever you are in this world there is nothing like laughter to make you feel good.

And a soup of Butternut in South -Africa.Good for old and young.

Butternut - Pumpkin soup - is cooked, served, loved and eaten through all segments of South-African Society. With a little bit of cinnamon.....and butter, sometimes thick or if you like it smooth.